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Dogs and Demons: Tales From the Dark Side of Modern Japan copyright 2001 by Alex Kerr

If you are curious at all about the modern (post WWII) history of Japan, how it became such a strong nation so quickly, how its culture has affected its government (and vice versa), and the many (and oft unspoken) issues/problems facing the country today, you will read this book. Seriously, go buy it right now. It is fascinating, enlightening, disheartening, and scary (especially if you have spent time in Japan).

With just two months left in Japan, it is a strange and most interesting time for me to read this book, for it contains some harsh criticisms of Japanese policies (from environmental to financial to educational). I don't want to leave with negative impressions, not after the incredible and enriching time I've spent here. However, just recently have I started to realize how I've changed in Japan, which parts of the culture I've adapted to, and which still seem so foreign to me. The book has answered many of my questions (even questions I didn't know I had) about Japan, and shed much light on a country where ideals reign over truths. Though I have seen glimpses of it with my own eyes, most shocking to me is the extent to which the bureaucratic juggernaut dominates not only government, but society as well.

Though the book will likely not be as meaningful for those of you who haven't spent time here, I still highly recommend it. It is well written, and contains a wealth of information on the current issues/challenges confronting (or perhaps, not confronting) Japan.

Waking up with the fishes

Last Friday I took the overnight bus down to Tokyo with my buddy Aaron for a fun-filled weekend in the city. I've spent very little time in Tokyo since I've been in Japan, and there were a few things I've been wanting to see/do before I leave. High on this list was the Tokyo Central Wholesale Market, otherwise known as the Tsukiji fish market. The market is massive, occupying some 56 acres near Ginza--everyday except Sundays, 2300 tons of 400 kinds of seafood are delivered to market from all over the world (this according to "The Rough Guide to Japan"). 2300 tons! If my math is correct, that's over 5 million pounds of seafood, 30,000 times my weight. EVERYDAY. And we wonder why the oceans are emptying!


Anyway, Aaron and I arrived in Tokyo at the ridiculous hour of 4:30a.m. and quickly caught a taxi to the market. Though quite a few people visit everyday, the market is not really set up for tourists. Aaron and I walked in through the main truck entrance, learning quickly to pay attention and stay out of the way of the workers, all extremely busy packing, unpacking, icing, loading, unloading, carrying, and transporting the day's catches on little motorized carts. We strolled about the the narrow alleys of the outer markets for about 20 minutes, gawking at the endless kinds of fish, eels, squid, octopus, sea anemone, and unidentifiable creatures on display, much of which was so fresh it was still flapping and squirming.


Finally we made it to the back of the market, where the famed tuna auctions take place. In a large warehouse room, hundreds of rock-solid frozen tunas of all sizes were laid on the cement floor. The tunas had a number of markings and tags, presumably telling weight, quality, country of origin, etc. There were a great many people moving about, buyers and sellers I presume, inspecting each fish and preparing for the auction. Suddenly, two men rang some shrill hand bells about 5:30 and the first calling began. The caller spoke no Japanese that I recognized, but in a manner much calmer than I had imagined, each fish was bought/sold (for between 600,000-1,000,000 million yen, again according to RG Japan). We watched several rounds of this, snapping the necessary pix, before returning to the outer markets and the not-so-fresh air.

Aaron and I had planned on having a bite at one of the many (and perhaps freshest in the world) sushi shops on the edge of the market, some opening at 5:30a.m. However, the sight of so much seafood, some of it still alive, at an hour reserved in the West strictly for coffee, our stomachs were not quite up to it. So we took one last look and made our way to the front of the market again, side-stepping the many carts and crates. On the way out we passed the styrofoam box recycling (I sure hope they were recycling them) spot--the sheer volume of which was quite shocking.

Next Step

This past week I was offered an 6-month internship position with The PEPY Ride organization, and NGO working in Cambodia. "PEPY is a non-profit organization working to improve educational opportunities in rural Cambodia and offering unique adventures for those looking to give-back while they travel."

I was going to tell you more about the organization, but seeing as how I ripped that last sentence (as well as the PEPY logo/graphic) directly from the website, I will just direct you there: [www.pepyride.org] I encourage you to visit the site and read about this inspiring organization.

After some careful consideration, I have decide to accept the position, which begins mid-September of this year. I will be based at PEPY's office in Phnom Penh and living and working with a number of other interns. I am extremely excited for the opportunity to work for a grass-roots development organization again, especially as I will be involved in both NGO Management and International Education, two fields I am considering for graduate school and my career.

Outside

Had a thoroughly enjoyable weekend. Woke up at dawn Saturday morning (4a.m.) for golf at my local course with fellow JET Ken and another teacher from my school. After a late Southern breakfast of cheese grits, fried eggs and toast, I met other friends Mike and Iku-chan for an early lunch (perhaps the best "katsu-don", a fried pork cutlet served with onions and egg over rice, in all Japan) and a tour of Yubikan, the site of the former samurai school of the Date Masamune clan. The buildings date back some 350 years, and the grounds/gardens are quite stunning. Unfortunately I was without my camera, so no photos to post.

After the tour, the three of us spent the afternoon playing 54 holes of Park Golf. Park Golf, for the uninitiated, is a game somewhere between golf and putt-putt. It is played on real turf, complete with greens, fairways, rough, and bunkers, but using only one club and a hard ball a little smaller than a tennis ball. The holes are anywhere from 30-100 meters long, with a 9-hole course not exceeding 500 meters. It is not nearly as challenging as golf, and thus much less frustrating and much more relaxing. It is immensely popular with 50 and up crowd in Japan as well as an increasing number of JETs in Miyagi prefecture.

Sunday I was up early again at 4a.m. to meet my Japanese buddy Matsumoto for a morning of fly-fishing, my first time out this year. We had some brilliant weather in the early morning, cool and clear and still, and there were several different insect hatches coming off the water, but I was unable to take any fish. We tried three different spots on the Naruse river, but the fish were seemingly just not hungry. I saw only a handful feeding in 5 hours of fishing, and none of them wanted what I was presenting. Matsumoto caught 3 small char (5 inches?) on spinning tackle, and released them promptly. It was a fantastic morning, despite going fishless...

Three haiku

LOST

On the wooden steps
Of the secret mountain shrine
Forgetting the day

SAD

Before afternoon
Fades into the blue gloaming
Wind waters my eyes

SOLACE

The pole straight cedars
Shoot up through the warbler's song
Scattering the light

Where is the wa?

Less than hour after landing at the Detroit airport on the flight from Tokyo, I was on a domestic flight to Charlotte. While taxi-ing the runway, I was stunned by both the size (height and girth) and the manner of most on board. Of the six people in my row, I was the only person under 200 lbs. I was one of two people who did not use their cell phone immediately before or after take-off/landing. And I was one of only a handful of folks on board who wasn't speaking to their seatmates.

This came to me quickly:

Enormous strangers
Chatting loudly side-by-side
On and on and on


In fact, I had been rather looking forward to being back in a place where folks who don't know eachother converse. In Japan, strangers rarely chat. But, I was struck (put off?) by the air of self-importance with which many Americans carry themselves. No doubt I carry this same air about me in Japan--head always up, daring others do make eye contact, moving most deliberately. But seeing so many people like this in a narrow space, I immediately thought of the ever humble Japanese, ever aware of others' personal space, and ever preserving the "wa" (harmony).

On the way home...

Last week I returned home to the Carolinas for the first time in almost 2 years for the wedding of my good friend.

Two haiku came to me on my journey home, one while on the bullet train to Tokyo, and the other while on the airplane. I am not sure if the Japanese translations are quite right/poetic, but I will include them anyway...

Lingering blossoms
Sprinkled on the green hillside
Gone when I return

ざんかの木
みどりに掛けた
帰るーなし

Zanka no ki
Midori ni kakeru
Kaeru--nashi

and

Cloud sea far below
And home on the horizon
Fuji remembered

雲海や
家近くなる
富士きおく

Unkai ya
Uchi chikaku naru
Fuji kioku