Monkey Business

Last weekend I was mountain biking on the old earthen wall of Angkor Thom, when suddenly my path was blocked by a troop of about 40 monkeys. While not super-aggressive, they certainly had no fear of me and a few were quite interested in my bike, helmet, and my water bottle, which one pulled out of the cage and tried to make off with. Cheeky bugger. The majority of them paid me no attention, even when I approached to take photos from close range. Nearly got in the middle of a domestic dispute between a mother and young male who was displeased about something, but I managed to escape the melee.


"Hey you monkeys, get out of my way!"


Mother eating, with wide-eyed baby.


"Hmmm, wonder what this handlebar and seat taste like?"


New perch


Sad monkey at sunset


Contemplation


Confused


The Helmet Licker


My favorite photo of the bunch

Vignette #2: The Tenor

He is sitting across from me at the corner booth, smiling with a precocious and yet still innocent arrogance that quickly reveals itself to be entirely feigned. The man could easily pass for 18, and though I guess him to be about 28, is actually a decade older 38. He is introduced to me as Cambodia’s only operatic tenor, something I initially disbelieve. Flashing his deceptively boyish grin, he hands over a business card—his name is written elegantly in Khmer and English calligraphy, and then below in block print, plainly says “TENOR.” I am not fully convinced. He pours us each a Jaeger bomb, a rather foul concoction, and in one swift motion downs the drink and plunks the tumbler back on the table, clinking the shot glass inside. I follow. Wiping a drop from the corner of his mouth with the back of his hand, he tells me of his eight years of training in Russia and his performances of Puccini and Tchaikovsky and Rachmaninoff in Rome and Moscow and even Pyongyang. He is fluent in Russian and English, and yet sitting in a sleeveless T-shirt, flaunting his compact, sinewy biceps, he appears to me a cocksure young boxer. He pours two more shots before I can refuse. The conversation begins to flow as freely as the drinks, and we move on to politics and women and Pol Pot. The name. It slams into me as hard as the last shot hit my throat. Again, I have forgotten his age. He is not an innocent kid, his eyes have witnessed terrors I can’t imagine even in nightmares. He was five when Phnom Penh was overtaken and evacuated. Bluntly, he tells me about surviving the Khmer Rouge, the separation from his parents, and then much too candidly, about the loss of his brothers and sisters, mentioning them like marbles lost in a childhood game. I am shaken, and do not respond. He reaches for the bottle again, though this time I politely decline, and cover the glass with my hand. He drinks again, peering at me with painless eyes, eyes that reveal nothing at all. In two days, I will hear him sing, and the encounter will make even less sense.

Vignette #1: The Nonchalant

I've been trying to do a bit of creative writing recently, just for fun really. As I have almost no imagination when it comes to characters or plots, I've just been writing exaggerations loosely based on personal experiences. Following is the first in a series of vignettes I will be posting in the coming weeks...

The café is misnamed, for it does not occupy the corner. In fact, the Corner Bar & Grill sits exactly four businesses away from the corner, nestled between a pair of cafes looking remarkably similar to the Corner. Never mind, this fact doesn’t seem to matter in the least to the mysterious young European sitting cross-legged on the rattan chair under the Corner’s awning. Despite the heat, her slender limbs are covered to the wrists and ankles in black attire that would look nondescript in gray London perhaps, but here set her apart from the multitudes of barang dressed in revealing tank tops and vibrant skirts. She fidgets in the chair, her long legs making it difficult to curl up as she appears wont to do. Reaching for a Marlboro from a packet on the table, she gazes indifferently out of the café at nothing in particular, seemingly oblivious to the bustle of passing motos and street vendors. As she flicks her lighter, a strand of auburn hair falls from behind her ear, dangerously close to the flame and yet this too, she appears not to notice. With each drag, she exhales disdainfully, as if perturbed that the coming breath of fresh air will interrupt the nicotine gratification. Neither happy or sad, it is quite evident that the only thing holding any interest for her is the precious cigarette.

2008: The Top 100

I'll forewarn you, this is a long one. I wrote these entirely for me, but I thought I would share them as they are my best memories from what was truly a sensational year. I am blessed to have so many opportunities and good people around me. Without further ado, here you have them:

1. New Year’s Day in Sihanoukville, Cambodia with Daniela and the CAR Team -- an uninhabited island, champagne, euchre, Frisbee, and warm Cambodian sun.

2. Rim to rim to rim. Traversing the Grand Canyon on foot twice in two days with my friend Liv. I never been so tired, and a beer has never tasted better than at the top.

3. Cycling to the coastal town of Kep with a group from PEPY, including a 140km day.

4. Mom and Dad’s 40th anniversary weekend. Great time with the whole family and old friends. I enjoyed cooking the meal and keeping my mom out of the kitchen for once!

5. “Babysitting” my nieces and nephews. I gave them a cardboard box and bubble wrap and they played for 8 hours and needed no supervision.

6. Motorbike adventures in Lao, including a breakdown near the Chinese border, running out of gas in the middle of endless rice paddies, and getting quite lost for about two hours on a forested back road.

7. Obama wins. What a night that was, even in front of the TV in Gurley Holler.

8. Teaching mi compadre Andrew how to fly-fish, and watching him catch his first fish on a fly. He’s a natural.

9. Coming home to NC late spring. Beautiful.

10. The stark naked roller skater on the river boardwalk in Portland Oregon.

11. Dawn bike rides around the temples of Angkor with Adam and Daniela. At ban chop k’nyom!

12. My first Backroads trip in the Canyons with Chuck, Courtney, Jason, and Sarah. My first time cooking for 30 people—chaotic, but so much fun!

13. The best ever day fishing with Pop on Secret Creek. Best Ever.

14. Camping, fishing, and hot spring-ing with Asha in Oregon.

15. Lao New Year—a 3-day water fight in Luang Prabang.

16. Chopping firewood in the fall. Hands down my favorite chore at home in Gurley Holler.

17. Seeing Marc and Erika, just after the birth of their first son, Forrest B.

18. Learning to make Khmer curry from scratch with Thavry.

19. Cooking at home with Mom, both in the spring and fall.

20. Dawn on the river near Chi Phat, Cambodia.

21. Scrabble, cards, and PB apples in Chanleas Dai with Adam and Karina.

22. Chatting to monks at pagodas in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. So warm and peaceful.

23. Finndependence & the Punk Party, because blue-cross Mohawks and costumes are just plain fun.

24. Playing ‘Merica with Mike and Adam from Utah to Wisconsin to Cambodia.

25. Finally seeing Ryan Adams again, and the buildup to the show.

26. Wakeboarding with Danny and Dad on Lake James.

27. Hiking the Narrows in Zion with my Sarah.

28. Hiking the Art Loeb trail with Andrew and Brian. I don’t know why I never did this while growing up, it is a stunning hike in WNC.

29. Fishing with Pop on Cane Creek in Bakersville. So much fun early in the season before the worm fisherman get to them!

30. Biking on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, a great 50-mile solo ride out to Point Imperial.

31. Meeting a young Lao university student, who kindly stopped me on the street and showed me around Luang Prabang for the day.

32. The last day of the Davita trip. Packing up 140 tents for the 4th time in 5 days wasn’t necessarily fun, but the early fall day was gorgeous and it felt great to finish a huge undertaking.

33. Eating mango sticky rice for breakfast on a restaurant terrace overlooking the Mekong, along with petroleum thick Lao coffee and a coconut shake.

34. Hiking on Mt. Hood with Mike and Ikuko.

35. Jonathan’s rooftop musical performance at Chez PEPY.

36. Dutch oven cooking all summer. Because baking cakes and bread while you’re camping is downright delicious.

37. Hot apple cider in the fall. Felt like a kid again.

38. Thanksgiving with the gang @ Chateau PEPY in Siem Reap. My favorite holiday, and while I never seem to be home with family (7 years running), I always end up in amazing places with great people.

39. Spending the night in the Cambodian jungle. Not particularly comfortable in sardine hammocks, but a memorable night nonetheless.

40. Planting some flowering trees with my Pop in the spring. It just feels good get grab a shovel, get your hands in the earth, and plant a tree.

41. My first-ever time rock climbing, near Phnom Kulen. A great day with Adam, Daniela, Thavry, and a fun group of Japanese folks.

42. Leader Rock on the North Rim with carrot cake and wine. Unbeatable.

43. Asheville Tourists game with Andrew. Nothing like a minor league ballpark, hotdogs, a beer, and some old Republicans behind you talking politics & baseball.

44. Meeting Lina and Puu @ Siem Reap Town, my favorite local spot to eat in Siem Reap. I am often the only customer and they never fail to welcome me like family.

45. Buildup to the Election. Watching the debates and discussing politics was interesting and fun for a change, with liberals and conservatives alike.

46. Playing the KneeKnocker game in Siem Reap with Aaron and the locals during Khmer New Year.

47. Meeting Kung Nai and the Instrument Maker, artists who survived the Khmer Rouge, and watching young Cambodian perform traditional Khmer dance and song.

48. Exchanges with the moto and tuk-tuk drivers outside Chez PEPY in Phnom Penh. We always said the same thing and it was always entertaining.

49. Bubble Tea and dumplings with Mandy and Tech.

50. The smile on Meth’s face when I gave her a loaf of homemade bread.

51. Watching the river dolphins, and then the sunset on the Mekong River.

52. Dancing Meringue on the beach in Sihanoukville, Cambodia. This made no sense, perhaps why it was so enjoyable.

53. Hiking and swimming at Kuang Si falls, outside Luang Prabang.

54. Playing “Celebrity” and hanging with the Gunshop crew.

55. Cooking and eating with Erin, Achaya, Mandy, Wonton, and Tech.

56. Driving in the Canyons and making cakes with camp assistant Sarah.

57. Exploring Portland on a bicycle.

58. Exploring Phnom Penh on a bicyle.

59. Dropping a transmission in Middle of Nowhere, Wyoming with Mike and Adam.

60. Road trip with Morgan across the Heartland and the many truckstops along the way.

61. Kayaking the Nam Ou with a playful guide and a fun couple from the Czech Republic.

62. Playing euchre with Aaron, and reliving our days in Peace Corps Panama.

63. The few times my whole family was together for a meal.

64. Hiking Paintbrush Canyon in the Tetons with Justin, and a long discussion about religion.

65. Fishing with Keon and Brad outside Victor, and the hamburgers afterward.

66. Angels Landing in Zion with Liv. Simply exhilirating.

67. Kitesurfing with Daniela in Mui Ne, Vietnam. There isn’t a better rush than being locked in to the wind and zipping across the waves.

68. The kindness of three Lao families who invited me into their homes for Lao New Year meals and celebration. Well two of them invited me. I am still not sure how I ended up at one home. They were completely baffled by my presence (as was I), but were kind enough to not turn me away!

69. Mountain biking in and around Dalat, Vietnam, the City of Eternal Spring. And strawberry fields forever. Really.

70. Getting robbed in Dalat. This was strangely a good experience. The thief snuck into my hotel room at night, and was kind not to wake me while taking only $16, and leaving my camera, iPod, credit card, and other cash.

71. Teaching for two days at the PEPY Ride School in Chanleas Dai. Eager students make teaching so much fun.

72. Visiting Beng Mealea with Aaron K. Its like playing Indian Jones.

73. Leading a PEPY trip with Peppi, and losing/recovering the generator.

74. Fishing the Davidson River for the 1st time outside Brevard. I went on a whim, had a beautiful morning and caught a monster.

75. Canyoneering in Zion. Indescribable, and Zion became one of my favorite places.

76. Emily’s wedding in Celo. After a hail storm delayed the event, the service was blessed by one of the most beautiful late afternoons I had seen in a long time. Good times with old friends.

76. Sleeping outside under the stars all summer.

77. Visiting Lambeau Field. What an incredible place, just for football. Only football.

78. Homemade Tonkatsu with Mike and Ikuko in Portland. Natsukashii!!! Felt like Japan again.

79. Cycling on crisp autumn days in NC on my newly purchased road bike.

80. Little Tokyo in LA with Matt. Felt like a tiny slice of Japan.

81. Speaking Spanish at the Mexican taquerias in Grand Prairie, TX. Also, the tacos.

82. Returning to Phnom Penh, and wandering on foot. So much character.

83. Mountain biking in Chi Phat, and the best cold shower I’ve ever had at the waterfall.

84. Mountain biking around the Western Baray, and on top of the ancient wall of Angkor Thom.

85. Dinner and wine on the back porch with Andrew, Mom, and Dad in early summer.

86. Reunion with Mandy and Wonton in San Francisco Airport.

87. Seeing the Tetons for the first time.

88. Returning to PEPY. What a wonderful group of people to live and work with.

89. Falling in love with Portland.

90. Camping in eastern Idaho and western Montana with Pop.

91. Visiting RDIC for the third time, and seeing their projects.

92. Watching the Olympics, especially sports I generally have no interest in like archery and gymnastics.

93. Routinely getting up at 5am this summer to get the coffee and breakfast started.

94. Trying to perfect the tomato bisque.

95. PEPY Paintball.

96. On the swings with Asha.

97. Barefoot in the white sand dunes of Mui Ne. A bizarre feeling to be alone in the desert.

98. Going away party from PEPY at Sovanna and Pontoon. Incredible friends, delicious steak, and ridiculous dancing.

99. New Years Eve Midnight. With good friends in a hot tub on a hotel rooftop terrace in Siem Reap, watching the fireworks and floating lanterns over the city.

100. Making countless plans for 2009. I never seem to tire of dreaming up new places to go and new things to try.

Year in Review

2008 has been a year of seemingly constant motion for me, perhaps the most I have ever traveled in 12 months. The year opened on a beach in Sihanoukville, Cambodia and then went like this: Phnom Penh, Ho Chi Minh City, Mui Ne, Da Lat, Phnom Penh, Stung Treng, Siem Reap, Luang Prabang, Vientiane, Paxse, Phnom Penh, Home in NC, Salt Lake City, Zion & Bryce Canyon, Salt Lake City, St. George, Zion, Bryce and Grand Canyon, Jackson Hole, Yellowstone, Grand Tetons, Eastern ID, Western MT, Jackson, St George, Canyons again, San Francisco, Portland OR, Salt Lake City, Wyoming, South Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Nebraska, Wyoming, Salt Lake City, Portland OR, Dallas TX, Home in NC, LA, Phnom Penh, and finally Siem Reap, where I have been for the last 6 weeks, the longest I've stayed in one place all year!

Following are some photo highlights from each month:

January


Part of the PEPY team, Phnom Penh



Coconut bike, en route to Kep, Cambodia

February


Students read new books in Chanleas Dai



White Sand Dunes in Mui Ne, Vietnam

March


Marina in Mui Ne, Vietnam


Sunset over the Mekong, Kratie, Cambodia


April


Monk drinks at Angkor Wat


Strong boys at the entrance to Beng Mealea


May


Feeding the lambs


May morning in the garden, Gurley Holler

June


Fishing with Andrew on Cane Creek, Bakersville NC


Camp Kitchen, Zion National Park

July


The Tetons


Fishing with Pop on Secret Creek

August


Grand Canyon Traverse


Angel's Landing, Zion National Park



September


Lambeau Field


Mt. Hood



October


Camping Next to Water, Near Brightenbush Oregon


The Woodards, October 19 2008



November


Students at the Chanleas Dai Primary School


West Entrance to Angkor Thom

December


Two boys play chess on the street in Siem Reap

Sunrise near Chi Phat

Apsara

I didn't get any photos that quite captured the grace and poise of this Apsara dancer, but she was stunning to watch. The traditional Khmer arts were nearly extinguished during Pol Pot's regime--it is truly special to see young artists practicing them now.

One of PEPY's partners, Cambodian Living Arts, is working to connect the few master artists who survived the Khmer Rouge with young students. During my first stint in Cambodia, I was fortunate to see both masters and students perform several times, some of my finest memories here.

Cycling, Vinyasa, Climbing.

No shortage of activity since arriving in Siem Reap--it's great to live with so many people who constantly like to get out, exercise, and have fun. Besides the paintball, we've been biking several times a week in and around Siem Reap and Angkor. This weekend some of our crew will join a cycling race around Angkor and a few of us will lead a mountain biking trip around the Western Baray on Sunday.

I am also going to a yoga class twice a week, which so far has been powerful for body and mind. I quite like connecting spiritual and physical wellness in one practice--it is invigorating and relaxing at the same time.

Last Sunday I went rock climbing for the first time. A group of Japanese people currently working in SR started a climbing group, and invited a few of us along to climb with them at Phnom Kulen (Lychee Mountain). I had tried free climbing and bouldering before but was never quite comfortable on the rock, so it was nice to try climbing with gear and with Japanese folks, who can make a complete amateur feel like an expert (上手ですねえ！）We had a wonderful morning scaling an enormous rock in the middle of the jungle, and spent the afternoon cycling back to Siem Reap. Quite a day.


On the rock


A group of youngsters, puzzled by our efforts


The group お疲れさまでした！

All photos courtesy of Adam Vaught