Fuji, Day One

My friend Mark and I took advantage of the recent long weekend (Monday was "Respect for the Aged Day") to make our assault on Mt. Fuji, affectionately known in Japan as Fuji-san. The climbing season is officially closed, though it is possible to summit year-round if you have the gear and the gumption. September is an opportune time to make the climb actually, as most of the crowds (600,000 a year) are gone and the weather is still quite good (or maybe we just lucked out). We set off Saturday afternoon from 5th Station, where the road stops and the trailhead begins. 5th Station is as high as many folks go, unfortunate as it is merely a collection of over-priced restaurants, over-priced souvenir shops, and rather poor views of the great mountain. After stocking up on some riceballs and $2 Snickers, we began our walk.

After leaving 5th Station, it doesnt take long to get above the tree line. The lush green of Japan soon turns into the gray, brown, and red rock of Fuji's cone.




The trail is ugly at times, especially as the afternoon sun disappeared behind the mountain and the light faded. Yet, when turn your back on the mountain and take a look a the 雲海　(unkai/cloud sea) below, you realize what a spectacular place it is.



It took us just over three hours to reach the 8th station, arriving just after dark as a cold mist was enveloping the mountain. The ascent was by no means easy, the terrain was often steep and rocky, or covered in loose gravel. Yet, we were some of the fastest climbers on the mountain, leapfrogging the few bottlenecks we encountered,



and half-competing with a group of four young Frenchmen who were hiking in jeans and suede loafers.

By the 7th station, I noticed a considerable difference in the air. We luckily didn't suffer any affects from the altitude, save for becoming easily winded. Our climbing strategy of walking fast and breaking often, was much different than the trudginly slow, but steady pace of most of the Japanese.



Reaching the 8th station as the temperature dropped and the winded picked up, we checked into a warm hut/bunkhouse, paid our $55, and were given a couple of futons/spots on a large bunkbed. We had hoped to chat a bit with the others in the hut, but it seemed a rather unsocial crowd so we ate our onigiri, chips, and chocolate quietly, and had a few nips of brandy to keep the chill off. Not quite full, I paid an exorbitant $5 for a instant cup noodle, but did so with little complaint as it was hot and delicious. Retired to our bunk-futons early to rest for the early morning ahead of us...

Below, a few more photos from the afternoon's ascent above the clouds: