Street Walker

The first time one goes out for a walk in Saigon, or perhaps on any street in Vietnam, is a test of courage. The sidewalks are always full, not just full of people like New York City movie scenes, but full of bikes, vendors, tables, chairs, etc. One oft has to step into the street to go around something. The traffic is constant; there are few traffic lights and zero pedestrian crossing signals telling when to walk and when to stop.

The first time I approached a crosswalk, I was quite unsure as to how I would make it across. A never ending stream of motorbikes blocked my way. I considered my options: keep making right turns and walk around the same block until I tire or, make a mad dash through the traffic, testing my speed and agility. I was leaning towards the latter, when a Vietnamese man walked past me, stepped into the street without looking right or left, and proceed to cross slowly, though without stopping or hesitating even once. I watched somewhat perplexed as another young woman on the other side crossed quite similarly. There must be something to this I thought, and decided to give it a go. As I stepped down from the sidewalk, I couldnt help but look right and left, though keeping my feet moving. I walked straight and at a normal pace, and watched in awe as bikes glided by on either side. The drivers didn't slow, but neither did they cut me off or infringe upon my walking space. Everyone seemed to have a great sense of spacial awareness and anticipation.



The more I walked, the more comfortable I became. One learns to walk deliberately, and trust that the other moving vehicles in the vicinity are aware of him/her. I found that stopping in the middle of the street, to let a bus or pack of motorbikes go by, was perfectly safe. Hestitation, however, was dangerous. If the other drivers don't know what you are doing, then they can't adjust. Go, or stop, but do nothing in between. I actually thought it was easier to jaywalk than to use the crosswalks, because the traffic was not so bunched, and therefore more easily navigated.

By the end of the trip, I had learned how to walk as if the traffic wasn't there at all.

Photo courtesy of Mark Barr.